Nafex Southern Pear Interest Group
Bulletin Board
Editor
Travis J. Callahan 11403 Wesley Road, Abbeville, LA 70510
337-893-9134 E-mail teejcee@cox.net
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Click here to see the fine zone chart with your county zones
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Travis J. Callahan
Report from South Louisiana
Today, March 15, 2012
My European pears have fruit set while Hosui and Korean Giant are still dormant. This has never happened before and very low chill hours are to blame. This was one of the mildest winters I have ever seen. Is everyone else having the same experience?
Carl Mohrherr
Report from Florida
I was mowing around the base of my trees today and thought I would note which
of these are flowering. In future years I will keep more detailed
records. I try to always have pears near one another that flower at the
same time. Temperature could drop to 25 F tonight.
Feb 11. 2012 Pace, Florida in ZIP 32571
No buds means no emerging flower buds or leaf buds
Asian pears and Olton Broussard. No buds.
Other pears:
Hoods bloomed in January
Florida Home have bloomed
Joy and tropic sweet apple bloomed early this year.
Two different unknown plum trees bloomed early
Chickasaw plums: some have started to bloom and and others have small buds.
Moonglo-no buds
Unknown sweet pear=no buds
Luella-beginning to bloom
Cajun pineapple=no buds
Orients-no buds
Kieffer=no buds
Southern Bartlett=large bugs ready to flower
Golden Boy=no buds
Sug=flowers
Court House Sq=buds ready to bloom
Carnes=flowered early
What is probably a pineapple flowered same time as the Carnes
Leconte=no buds
quince=no buds
?Ayer=no buds
Tenns=no buds
At ;least one mulberry has blooms.
Lowquat has set some small fruit.
A nectarine has flowered early also and the others have not yet done so.
Carl Mohrherr
Marcus Toole
Report from Statesboro, GA
March 31, 2012
I am moving into my parent’s old house in Statesboro Georgia from Canada. My mom who has Alzheimer’s now lives with my sister and the main reason for the move is to be closer by to help my sister with my mom. Anyway, I’m taking over the old place and plan to plant some fruit trees. I have space for three pear trees and am looking for the best .
My lot in Statesboro is fairly small, probably a half acre lot. We have 350 acres about ten miles away, but that is mostly planted pine. There is no good way to water anything out there. In my yard, space wise, I figure that I can cheat a bit. I’m guessing that standard pears will need to be on 20 to 25 foot centers, eventually, but that’s probably 20 years off.
There are two very old pear trees in the yard and if I can’t get the two grand old trees to bear fruit again, maybe I can give them a new lease on life by grafting them onto a young tree and then cut the old trees down. They are so big that this would open up space for about four other fruit trees. Being in the shade probably retarded the fruit production.

The smaller tree with my house in the background. Before I started clearing wisteria and oak trees, you could not see my house from this spot due to the jungle. It is a miracle that these trees survived at all. They must be made of tough stuff.

My new pear trees

This photo is of Tenn’s in the
foreground and Sug in the background. Of the three trees I bought,
Tenn’s was the smallest and is growing the slowest, but just the same it is
doing very well. Sug is growing the fastest of the three.

This is the Southern Bartlett Pear which I
bought from Just Fruits and Exotics. This was the first year they were
available on a very limited basis. I think I remember the guy at the
nursery saying that my tree was the very first one shipped to Georgia.
So far it looks great and is growing like a weed.
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Welcome New Member Larry Stephenson
Carrollton, Mississippi
Hello Group,
I've got about 40 pears, 20 different varieties. Only 3 are old enough to bear regularly; Kieffer, Korean Giant and Orient. Last year was about average, I picked probably 8 or 9 five-gallon buckets. I have several trees 5 or 6 years old (some might be 7 or 8 ) that are slow to bear. Maxine and Moonglow are the worst offenders. Maxine is a tremendous grower; I must have pruned off a ton of wood from this tree over the years, without having a pear to taste. Last year it finally did bloom and had a few pears, but they were blown off by wind or just fell before I could try one. I see a fair number of buds on it now so I'm hoping this year it will produce something. I have been a Nafex and SFF member for about three years.
Moonglow is a slow grower, not vigorous at all. It also had a few pears last year, which I missed. It's covered with buds now, so maybe it'll bear this year. I'm wondering if I grafted it on Calleryana roots if it might bear more and faster. My tree must be on some kind of dwarfing rootstock.
One Ayers is 6 years old and also had a few pears for the first time last year.
Warren, Potomac, Blake's Pride, and Shinko are the varieties I think are most likely to give me good soft eating pears, so they get a little more attention than the other trees. I also have Seckel and Magness, but I'm not sure they're true to variety; I got them from a big discount nursery, and they all look suspiciously alike. If they bear this year maybe I'll be able to tell. I can always graft other pears on them
I used to be quite proud of the asian pears I produced. I had Hosui (superb quality), New Century, and 20th Century that made several bushels of very fine pears regularly each year. I grew asian pears quite successfully for ten years without even knowing what fire blight was. When it started 5 years ago it absolutely devastated my asian pears. I've cut them all back to stumps and grafted Shinko on them. Shinko seems to be resistant. Korean Giant gets it, but mostly just on the branch tips. I watch pretty carefully and cut it out ASAP, and it doesn't seem to re-infect too much.
Two years ago I planted Tsu Li and Seuri, Chinese pears. They're supposedly fire blight resistant.
I just planted Fan-stil and Perdue; last year Dabney and Harrow Delight. I don't really need many more varieties, I need the trees I've got to start producing so I can evaluate them. All pears aren't high quality. I'd be content to have 6 or 8 if they made good fresh-eating fruit.
That's my pear situation. Weather permitting, I'll have 3 or 4 heavy producers for certain. Another half-dozen or more young trees could possibly do well if I'm lucky. I hope to have at least a couple bushels; with agreeable weather I might get a couple truckloads if the young trees started really producing.
Editors Note:
In describing his growing conditions Larry has this to say:
I live near Carrollton, Mississippi. I have 60 acres of my own, which adjoin 50 acres of my mother's land. My cousin has 160 acres nearby. I know that seems like plenty of room for orchards, but actually not a foot of it is really suitable for fruit culture. We're in the hills above the delta. Topsoil has mostly been washed away by 100 years of cotton farming. Now it's just hard red clay ridges and gullies. Pine trees and whitetail deer seem to like it. Kudzu thrives.
My property was cut over 20 years ago and has since re-grown in hardwood. Mama's was cut over 4 years ago and replanted with pine. Most of my orchard is surrounded by young pines which I hope will shelter it somewhat on the western and northern exposures. Lately I've been clearing brush and trees from the eastern side to get good morning sun.
All our property is heavily grown over except for what I can keep clear with the bush hog and lawnmower. I'm slowly expanding my orchard space, but it's quite a chore clearing land and keeping it cleared. I'm fortunate to have a small tractor, which is a tremendous aid. If I'd had a tractor when I was young, I wouldn't be so old and worn-out today.
Warm weather keeps me busy mowing and spraying herbicides. Kudzu is a plague.
Heavy clay soil does have one benefit; it holds moisture well. I have drip-irrigation hoses which I sometimes use on young trees only. Last year I didn't need them much.
I read with interest your report on ten-year rainfall averages. It seems about the same up here. We also get about 60 inches average, but no single season is ever average; always too wet or too dry. I suppose it should be comforting that the long-term average is unchanged, but it sure is hard on crops.
I'm growing pears and blueberries mainly by default, I guess; those are the fruits that best tolerate acid clay soil. Peaches, plums, and pecans have been expensive failures for me so far. Mulberries do well enough. I enjoy fresh mulberries and have several trees- red, white, and black. Figs will grow here, but it gets cold enough to kill them if they're not protected.
My jujubes are young but starting to bear well. I've had Li for a couple of years; I just don't like their texture and their taste is unimpressive. I tried candying and drying some and the results were only so-so. Maybe I needed more sugar. I couldn't entice anyone into even trying them; they really weren't very appealing. I've ordered some GA-866 scions to graft upon the Li. Langs bore fruit last fall and I thought them very tasty, well worth keeping.
I would really like to grow some apples. Most of my previous efforts have been failures. Last year I planted some that didn't die (my standard of success for apples) and I just planted a dozen heirloom southern apples, for which I hold great hopes. This seems to be an awkward area for apples, too cold for the warm-weather apples like Anna or Dorsett, too hot and humid for traditional varieties. I'm still trying though, and I hope I'm on the right track now with these southern types.
Enough for now. Hope to hear from other members soon. I find talking about fruit trees much more relaxing than planting and tending them, that's hard work.
Notes from the editor:
Larry will provide pictures of his trees in the future.
I have found that no other rootstock outperforms calleryanna for extreme soil situations. 90% of the pears sold in the country are on this rootstock. Any Bradford pear tree will provide all the seeds you would ever need. Bradford is a very pretty calleryanna tree patented due to it's round habit and beautiful foliage.
Several years ago I ordered several hundred rootstock from the White Rock Nursery in three different orders over a three year period. The price was very fair and the trees I got in were beautiful. I always felt that this company was the best experience in all the plants I have ever ordered, and there have been many orders.
At one time I had a fruit tree nursery and grafted 500 + pear trees a year. I ordered plants from WhiteRock and grew them a year in containers then grafted them and sold the next year. Planted in the ground, or in containers, the trees were ready to bud in the fall of the same year. I have not placed an order in a long time, but the owner then was Burl Russell.
Whiterock Nursery
RR 2 Box 226 Crockett, TX 75835
(936) 624-2173
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July 8, 2011 Report from Ed Abshire, Abbeville, LA
Ed Abshire is a long time friend of mine and his orchard is 46 years old. All of his trees are very large and the load the trees are carrying at this time is very hard to believe.

The Baldwin Pear does very well in this area.

Opposite side of the Baldwin.


Editors Note: Louisiana Beauty looks and tastes very much like Leona.

The Beautiful Tenn. Pear grafted ten years ago with wood from Ethan Natelson



Editors Note: This one sure looks like Orient to me, but others think they are different. I grew them side by side several years ago.
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Last winter was very cold and did not
seem to hurt the pears. Only
addition was that Chuck up in
I heavily fertilized this year which I had not done before. I think when there is blight the susceptible trees will get ill and the more resistant will get it and recover. My dwarf Kieffer and dwarf Orient have gotten it and have recovered. My Hood do not seem to have caught it. This year for the first time I used a lot of wood ash and N:P:P fertilizer. Fruit yield has been very heavy on most of the American varieties. The Kieffers did not fruit as much as they had done previously with branch breaking loads, but are still doing ok. The Asian pears are not putting out as heavily as they did last year, but still have abundant pears.
The Hood and Floridahome are currently my two early pears. The hoods have put out a lot of foliage, and this year for a change put out some fruit.

Photo 1. The above tree, a hood, is
putting out significant fruit for the first time.
It is next to a Loquat. Most
of the pears are on one part of the tree.
The tree was supposed to be a

Photo2. Dwarf orient in foreground and older hood loaded down with fruit that I am now picking. I would like to also get an Ubileen for another early pear type.

Photo3.
Mystery pear after about ten years in the shade is yielding after
fertilizer application and removing some of the shade.
It was labeled as a





First yield for this Tenn. tree. Most fruit is on a single branch.

First time yield for another Tenn. pear tree

Propped fruit laden Golden Boy. Tree has never been ill.

Propped fruit laden Sug pear. Tree has never been ill and has not grown very much likely to the huge yields that it has each year.

Fruit laden branch of another Cajun PineApple

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June 26, 2011 report from Travis Callahan, Abbeville, LA
2011 is indeed another heavy production year for pears here in South Louisiana. Our winter was a lot different than usual in that we had over 30 frosty mornings, but no days colder than 27 degrees. The temperatures were very stable in the fact that they slowly went up and down rather than the abrupt changes that cause the citrus trees damage in most winters.
In my son's pear orchard a few miles from my yard, branches are threatening to break from the sheer load on these very mature trees planted in 1992.
Here in my small orchard all the trees are sporting large crops especially the pears. My two pear trees have six different cultivars on each . The rainfall since January of this year has been very sparse. In the first five months of this year we only had 9 inches of rainfall. So far in June we have had seven inches . Our normal rainfall for the first six months of the average year is 33 inches leaving us at half of the normal. Here are a few pictures of the pears on my two trees as of today.



Please send me any grower's reports so I can add them to the web page..
Travis
Carl Mohrherr
<cmohrherr@uwf.edu>
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Report From Travis Callahan
Abbeville , LA
Zone 8B/9
I have harvested pears this year from all six varieties grafted on my two Bradford Pear trees . The crop was very large considering that the trees are only in their fourth year. I had to thin a lot of fruit from the trees on several occasions to avoid breaking limbs.
Travis



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Questions and Answers
Travis:
Question
I wonder if any of the readers have observed
the following:
I wonder if I a problem I have been having from stinkbugs occurs for other
growers. For years I have observed in the early spring that stinkbugs
will attack the young pears when they are the size of wild blue berry to the
size of a commercial blue berry. These are sucking insects as are all
bugs and their attack leaves what is initially a deep wound that appears as a
bite. This leaves at the minimum scaring or worst. Spraying does
not seem to be a good option since there are also often still blossoms on
these trees and I do not want to poison pollinators. My thought has been
to buy a can of WD-40 and directly spray these horrible pests when I see them.
Fine solvents generally upon contact will kill most insects since their waxy
epicuticles and breathing are sucesptible to solvents. I will just
purchased a fresh can of WD40 and will try it shortly.
I have also noticed that wasps also often will eat large cavities into pears
as they start to ripen. The squirrels and birds are the other common
agents of attacks on pears. The raccoons and possums seem not to bother
pears. fortunately I have had not problems yet from wild pigs or deer.
I would appreciate any advice or observations.
Carl Mohrherr
Answer:
Hello Carl,
I assume that you are referring to the Leaf Footed Bug. This is a fairly large brown bug with a white band from side to side on the back. This thing once destroyed a fairly large crop of my citrus where they ruined individual slices of oranges making them unusable. This is also a big problem in the Macadamia groves.
Tomato growers here in zone 9 are plagued by the Leaf Footed Bug to the point that many have stopped trying to grow tomatoes in this area. I have seen the bug on every fruit and most vegetables.
Here is a picture of several bugs including the leaf footed bug.
http://bugguide.net/node/view/93
I get total control of these things with this product, which is approved for all kinds of uses and is the safest thing I have found. You have to get the spray on the bugs which is not very hard to do since they usually clump up together. I assure you that this will make them hard to find after one spray.
http://www.bugsource.com/permethrin_10_.html
Travis
See
My Pear Gallery at the end of the page.
Please
send your pictures of pears you have definitely identified.
Report
from Carl Mohrherr
April 2010 Pace, FL
I am an amateur without a lot of time to spend on my trees. Located on
the side of a hill on poor soil, zone 8b, and with 60 inches of rain per year,
if a tree is not rugged it will not make it on my place. Last year was
not an especially good year since there was a lot of cold weather mixed with
warm periods in my location in extreme northwest Florida. I am somewhat
close to the Gulf of Mexico with my place being a few miles from Escambia
Bay. I am 80 to 110 feet above sea level due to the hills that we have.
Last year there was a bit of disease that killed better than half of my grafts
and fruit yield was also low. I hope it does not appear this year.
This year while we had a lot of cold, it stayed cold, which is better for
pears and not so good for citrus.
This winter, while being colder overall than normal, did not have the
intervening warm periods as occurred last year. There are a lot of carpenter's
bees and honey bees around this year. To date there has been very
good fruit set overall. I have finally had flowers on one Olton
Broussard and on one of the special pine apple pears that I grafted from the
grafting wood I received from Travis. No flowers on my Tenns
(Tennessee) yet even though one of the trees is of reasonable size.
Apparently my two recent grafts are growing that came from a Korean giant that
I purchased last year potentially giving me a total of three Korean Giant pear
trees. My Luella is in the shade and has not done much. I have
grafted it to a flowering pear with not so many other trees shading it out and
hopefully someday I will get to taste a Luella. I need to get busy with
chain saw and take down some more pines trees & brush to alleviate my
shading problem.
I think the Southern Bartlett is my best pear tree overall (I have two young
ones that are yielding pears and have started three more). S. Bartlett
trees yield early, so far are very disease resistant, the trees grow well
and are spreading which I like better than the typical very cylindrical tall
patterns of most pear trees. In hurricane prone areas encourage your
trees to grow low and prior to a storm top them or they will be blown down.
I see that the Southern Bartlett is available in the Houston area and
soon it is likely that the nursery "Just Fruits and Exotics" may
have it available for internet and local sale in Tallahassee since I did give
them some grafting wood. My Joy heirloom apple from them is doing well
(While self fertile I have a tropic sweet next to it and both are near my
septic tank field). They specialize in offering heirloom fruit cultivars
that they have encountered growing at old homesteads. I have
their Sug, Courthouse Square, and Yellow Boy. The Courthouse got yapped
from fire bright two years ago, but this year seems to have recovered growing
out beneath the main stem that was killed. Currently most of my Asian
pears have just begun blooming for the first time. The Hosui
(blooming) and what is probably a Tse Li pear (Previously I likely
misidentified this as a Ya Li, that is doing well) are trying to recover from
fire blight from previous years. Overall the Asian pears have grown less
than the other pears with Ya Li doing the best and it will do better since I
have removed some nearby brush..
My big problem has been the early bloomers labeled as sugar pear, Baldwin,
and Hood (I know for sure it is a Hood) grow fast, bloom very early, and yield
little in the way of pears. I am grafting Florida Home pears now near to
these in hopes of providing an early cross-pollinator. I have gotten a
few pears from the hood (planted in '95) that mature about the first of July
and that has gone up since my Floridahome has started blooming nearby. I
have other early bloomers, but they are not big enough to make a judgment
about such as a Carnes (apple pear) and what is supposed to be pineapple pear.
These two are within 50 feet of one another and cross pollination is assured
and both are shaded by pine trees and brush that I will remove. I am
thinking someday of getting a beehive to help with my pollination problem.
That is all for now.
Carl Mohrherr
Report from Drew Demler
3-27-10
Movin’ On
Well after several years of growing fruit in Central
Texas it is time to start over again. Due to several
reasons my small retail nursery closed down this year and I have now taken a
job in my home town of Baton Rouge, Louisiana. I will now
be in a much more similar climate to Travis and Dr. Natelson. It
is hard to leave my trees in Texas which were just getting to real maturity
and producing heavy crops but it is exiting to be able to start over and try
some different things as well. The South Louisiana climate and area will be
very different than my Texas home. The soil will be
different, I will have fewer chill hours on average and I expect more disease
issues. I am excited to be in an area that has good
rainfall and more fertile soil than Austin’s bad rocky dirt and droughty
summers. Before I moved I took cuttings of all my favorite
varieties and I will re-graft those this spring. I also had
a few grafted trees that I took along with me that I will plant as soon as I
get into a permanent home over here (hopefully not long).
In the future I plan to trial different rootstocks and
hopefully find some new local varieties of pear to try. I
will try some different techniques of training also and maybe even try my hand
at espalier. Mostly I plan to learn as much as I can about
growing pears in this new area.
Drew Demler
My Harrow Delight on OHxF 333 is, indeed, a delight; it yields well, and the quality is superb. I think those pears are the best I have ever tasted, and everyone else who tastes them agrees. The pears are quite sweet and aromatic, just slightly astringent (just enough to balance the sweetness), and the texture is buttery, without a hint of grit cells. The fruit size is medium. The tree is resistant to fire blight and is virtually trouble-free; it does have a very upright growth habit, and requires judicious pruning to train it to grow outward. I would recommend this variety without reservation to anyone in Zone 7. It yields in mid August in my area (along the Chesapeake Bay in southern Maryland).
I
have likewise been pleased with my Harvest Queen on Pyrus betulafolia
rootstock (purchased from Cummins nursery). This tree is more vigorous
than my other European pear on OHxF 333, and requires quit a bit of pruning.
It yields large pears in about late August to early September. Flavor
is excellent, very sweet with some tartness. There are a few grit
cells close to the core in some of the fruits. This one russetts some.
It is another winner, fireblight resistant and very easy to grow. The
betulafolia rootstock suckers vigorously, and annual removal of suckers is
necessary.
My
Yongi Asian pear continues to provide heavy yields of high-quality, delicate
pears. Now that the tree is more mature, it requires very heavy
thinning (I think this one is self-fertile in my climate), as every single
blossom sets a fruit every year. It is important to keep this cultivar
no taller than one can reach without a ladder, as (let me emphasize this
again) assiduous thinning is necessary for the fruit to size properly.
Harvest is usually about mid-September. This cultivar is sufficiently
tolerant of Fire Blight to raise in the mid-Atlantic area, and very
reliable.
My
Shinko seems to have suffered somewhat from our serial droughts; last year,
it set no fruit in the spring, but bloomed and set fruit in late September!
(which of course didn't ripen). It bloomed on schedule this year.
This one also requires heavy thinning, but otherwise is quite easy to raise.
Its flavor is somewhat more pronounced (more acidity, sugar, and tannins)
than the Yongi, and would probably be useful in Perry.
Let
me close by saying that the four pears I raise require almost no spraying
(in contrast to my other fruits). Perhaps once every other year I get
tent caterpillars in a tree and have to apply sevin (caution: this
causes spray injury to leaves and fruit if applied heavily). Plum
curculios leave scars on my Asian pears, but the damage is purely cosmetic.
European pears would be good fruits to recommend to novice fruit growers who
might be reticent about spraying. Asian pears are probably not a good
choice for new growers, as they demand quite dedicated thinning efforts.
Eddie
Earles 4/11/08
Below
is the link for the WebPages of Richard Ashton. Richard is the owner of OAK
CREEK ORCHARD. Richard sells some fine books on different fruit and has some
fruit for sale.
http://www.oakcreekorchard.com/
All
other contributors to the bulletin board please send a current update and I
will see if I can re-construct the bulletin board without the gremlins.
Report
From Florida July 26,2008
Carl
Mohrherr
Travis
and Ethan:
Just
to let you know that I have harvested some southern Bartlett pears from the
grafting wood that you all sent me several years ago. The pears are
quite large. The variety seems to be immune to fire blight. I
plan to propagate a few more trees.
The
grafting also produced three
If
anybody is interested I do have a carnes applepear, golden boy, hood, and
sug for grafting wood. The orients and kieffers of course are of
little interest. I have some other trees, but I am waiting to get
pears off of them to be sure of their identities.
I
also have several asian pears cultivars. The Ya li and Hosui will not
likely make it due to fireblight infections.
For
next winter I plan to order two Korean giants, a Magness, and an Atlantic
Queen that are said to be fireblight resistant. The magness and
atlantic queen are stated to grow in zone 9.
From
Vintage
Atlantic
Queen Pear
ATLANTIC
QUEEN PEAR is a unique old French cultivar. The tree is prolific and
tolerant of adverse conditions, with resistance to fireblight. The very
large (to 1 1/2lb) fruit has yellow-green skin covering a melting, juicy,
aromatic flesh. The trees can reach a height of 25 feet or more and grow in
any fertile, well-drained soil, in full sun. They have strong vertical
branches and require little pruning. The fruit grows on long-lived spurs and
is spherical to typically pear-shaped. It should never be allowed to ripen
on the tree. The ripening process is completed in storage where the pears
will ripen more evenly. It ripens in September. It has done well in the east
and west in both maritime and hot summers. USDA Zones 5-9. Needs a
pollenizer.
MAGNESS
was released by the USDA in 1968 as a very high quality dessert pear that
will survive under heavy fireblight pressure. Sometimes tardy to start
bearing, the fruit quality makes up for the light early cropping
(branch-spreading will significantly help). Mature trees are productive if
good pollination is provided. Magness ripens a week after
Best
wishes,
Carl
Mohrherr
March
31, 2009
This winter (2008-9) in
Pace, Florida (between Pensacola and Escambia Bay) was hard on the early
blooming fruits and also on the citrus. We did reach 22 F which is cold
for us here. My low chill Hood, Seckel, Carnes, Baldwin, and sug had
flowers on them in January, in fact the hood started in the last part of
December. The flowers more or less survived, but for some reason not
much fruit gets set on these early trees. My guess is that the low
temperatures slow down the pollinating insects. Also these are located
so that none of the nearby pears are in flower that early and I think that the
pears are not getting pollinated. A florida home tree planted near
the hood has started blooming and now the hood (it is about 15 yrs old) is
bearing some fruit but is nowhere near what could be considered as highly
productive. I have grafted some early flowering cultivars on these early
bloomers in the hope of insuring pollination.
My two southern
bartletts that yielded fruit for the first time last year have bloomed and now
also the later pears are blooming like orients and kieffers. The
southern bartletts were started from graft material as were the tenns, Luella,
olton Broussard, and a special pineapple from Travis. I like the
southern bartletts and have grafted a couple more. I have not yet got
anything off the other grafted pears yet except the first year where one of
the tenns grafts yielded a pear that was really good. The hosui is still
alive after a couple of bouts with fireblight and I can see it is not a good
choice for my area because of the lack of disease resistance. I am
planting a Korean giant that is said to be disease resistant..
That is all that I have
to say for now.
Carl Mohrherr
Pace Florida in
Woodbine Hills
Report from Abbeville,
LA
January, 10, 2011
Since I moved five years ago to a smaller and higher property, I no longer have the beautiful
orchard that I had for the previous 20 years. The young man who purchased the place
promised that I could harvest scion wood any time that I wanted to do so. Just
before the sale I collected graft wood from my favorite six pear trees and
purchased two well branched young Bradford Pears and grafted the six varieties
on each of the trees. All grafts were successful and the trees
have grown quickly. I harvested some of all six varieties of
pear last year.
A few days later I
learned that the young man had died of a drug overdose. He was 22 years old.
My
favorite pears
Leona
Pear (my best pear)
The
Southern Bartlett Pear
Southern
Bartlett trees sometimes have three distinct shapes. This shape is why our
friend Larry Brown named the unknown the Southern Bartlett.
Several years ago as I searched for the best local pears in South Louisiana , I was told about about Mr. Olton Broussard who was growing an especially good pear south of the town of Delcambre, LA. Mr. Broussard had at one time owned a fruit tree sales outlet locally. He had no idea as to the variety of the pear which he had gotten as part of a shipment from a fruit nursery in Mineral Wells, Texas and the tree tag only had the words Oriental Pear.
I managed to meet with Mr. Broussard and procure graft wood in 1991. In 1992 I grafted some trees for my son's farm and I harvested these today ( August 27, 2011) from one of those trees. Generally this pear is considerably smaller averaging about 0.50 pounds. We are in a very good pear harvest period and most of the varieties are larger than usual.
I have kept some of this variety in the chiller drawer of the fridge for more than three months so it is the best keeper that I know of. The pear is best when the color goes from light green to bright yellow which is a little riper than the pear in the lower left in the picture below. They never truly soften but the sugar content and juice increases if it is left on the tree for a little longer. Because of shelf life and the crispness of the fruit it has to be an Asian pear variety . The deep calyx end is a characteristic of the pear. Perhaps someone knows of a fruit tree nursery in Mineral Wells, Texas and we may one day solve the mystery of the identity.


Diana holds an Olton Broussard Pear that is over a pound.
The Olton Broussard Pear has a very deep calyx end
One
branch of the Orient Pear at my former property and destroyed by the buyer.
The
Cajun Pineapple (sure looks and tastes like the Orient)
I
did manage to salvage a graft or two from my former orchard.
Orient/Cajun
Pineapple is big too
The Hosui
Pear
Travis
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Page updated August 27, 2011